Yamaha 1300 Tourer - Yamaha 1300 Tourer Fansite

I’m not an especially tall man, about average height, but stretching my legs out to reach pegs located on the highway bars has never been a comfortable riding position for me. It’s just too far a stretch. So when Phacue mentioned in a post about pegs that attached to the floorboards, I was intrigued. After some thought, I figured, “what the heck” and decided to give them a try.

This is really a simple job, but if you’ve read any of my other work, then you know that I can put rocks to sleep!

So let's begin!

What you’ll need:
Drill
5/16” drill bit
1/4” drill bit
Hammer
1/2” socket
1/2" wrench
7/16” socket
Center punch (or nail)
Pliers
Scissors

Recommended:
Loc Tite

Suggested:
Tape

What you get from BikerBrackets:
Note: You have to purchase the O-rings separately. They cost $5 from BikerBrackets, or you can get them from your nearest Home Depot.

The kickout pegs themselves aren’t really that big:

There’s a drill template printed on the directions:

Cut it out, as you’ll be using it on the floorboards:

Let’s start with the right (throttle side) floorboard.

We’re going to be removing the rubber pad. Underneath the floorboard, you can see the 3 grommets that hold it:

Carefully pull up on the rubber pad to remove it:

Place the template in the front of the floorboard:
Note: I used tape to hold it in place.

Use the center punch (or nail) and hammer to mark the drill points:

Drill the 5/16” hole in the B (outer, farthest from the engine) position:

Drill the 1/4” hole in the A (inner, closest to the engine) position:
Note: The brake pedal folds up out of the way to get a straight line to drill. I did this by myself, but an assistant would have helped!

Here’s the stop bolt and post that will go into the inner hole:

The stop post itself is threaded, so there’s no nut needed for it:

Place the stop bolt into the inner hole:

I recommended using Loc-Tite to hold it on:

Thread the stop post onto the bolt:

Here it is in place:
Note: This is a 7/16” bolt head, but I just finger tightened it, since I’m using Loc-Tite.

Here’s the hardware for the kickout peg:
Note: There are 2 small washers.

Place the bolt and 1 small washer into the outer hole:

Underneath the floorboard, place the large nylon washer and large steel washer:

Put the peg on next:
Note: The directions say “Put the Kick Out Peg over the bolt so the flat “channel” is facing down”. Ummm, I didn’t see any such thing on the peg.

Finally, put on the other small washer and lock nut:
Note: Once again, I used Loc-Tite, as the whole assembly has a tendency to move with the peg.

Tighten the assembly with the 1/2” inch wrench and socket:
Note: tighten only enough to provide resistance during swing out and retraction of the pegs.

Here’s the peg out:

And with the O-rings on:

Place the rubber mat back on to the floorboard:

Pull the 3 grommets back into place with the pliers:

Here’s the peg retracted:

Now we just do the same thing for the left (clutch) side.

Remove the rubber mat:

Place the drill template UPSIDE DOWN on the floorboard and mark the drill points with the center punch:
Note: Once again I used tape to hold the template in place.

Drill the 5/16” hole in the outer position:

Drill the 1/4" hole in the inner position:

The stop post hardware:

Place the stop bolt and washer into the inner hole:

I applied Loc-Tite:

Thread the lock post onto the bolt:

Using the 7/16” socket, I just finger tightened it:

The kickout peg hardware:

Place the bolt and a single small washer into the outer hole:

Place the large nylon washer and large metal washer underneath the floorboard:

Place the peg on next:

Finally, the other small washer and lock nut:
Note: I used Loc-Tite here as well.

Tighten the assembly with the 1/2" socket and wrench:
Note: tighten only enough to provide resistance during swing out and retraction of the pegs.

Peg out:

Put the rubber mat back on:

Pull the 3 grommets back through with the pliers:

With the O-rings on:

Peg retracted:

Almost impossible to see through the highway bar, but here’s both pegs out:

At a distance, pegs out:

So how big is the peg, really? My shoe is 8 1/2(Eur 42), and as you can see the peg is just the width of my shoe:

Final Thoughts:

I was concerned about the pegs dragging when folded in, but they can fold back far enough that this hasn’t been a problem yet. It goes without saying, you don’t want these sticking out while riding around town. Tight turns are just not in the cards.

Also something to think about: You can’t deploy these while you’re moving. You have to stop and pull them out with your hands. I’m looking into a way to pull them out while on the move.

These can be purchased at www.bikerbrackets.com, but don’t expect a lot of feedback from them. I emailed them with a question and never heard back. When I ordered from them I never got a confirmation email or shipping info. As far as I can tell, they only accept PayPal on-line, otherwise you can send them a check. If you’re expecting an 800 number, they don’t have one. Despite all that, when I did email them to verify my order, they did respond quickly.

Cost:
$55 -- Kickout pegs
5 -- O-rings. These make a more secure footing. To me, they should not be extra.
11 -- Shipping. This is a flat rate. It only cost $5.45 to ship to me. I think they should adjust shipping according to region, like many other companies do.
$71 -- Total. Still a pretty inexpensive accessory for a bike!

For those of you mechanically inclined, here’s someone who created his own from regular pegs:
http://www.kawasakimotorcycle.org/forum/kawasaki-cruisers/29538-v2k-high...

Boomer Sooner
Potestatem obscuri lateris nescis