Yamaha 1300 Tourer - The Yamaha 1300 Tourer Fansite

Please thank BoomerSooner for the following How-To!

I’ve been meaning to put this together ever since I installed the brakeaway throttle lock and finally made the time before I forget about it completely. I apologize for the blurry photos. I didn’t realize I had done such a crappy job until after I was done.

These instructions are pretty much verbatim with what the throttle lock comes with, but what the heck.

What you’ll need:
5/16” wrench
1/2” open end wrench
Small Phillips screwdriver
10mm socket or wrench

It comes with the necessary allen wrenches.

Believe me, this is a simple job and I’ve made it look more long and drawn out than it actually is. There’s actually only a few steps and can easily be done in less than an hour.

This is what you get in the box:

Remove the four small phillips head Cap Screws. Don’t lose them! You’ll be putting them back in later. Trust me – I dropped one and it ricocheted off the downtube into the garage. Not fun.

Remove the Ring Cap:

Back out the four set allen screws until the end of the screws are flush with the inside of the Slip Ring:

Brakeaway comes with 3 different sized rubber Protection Strips:

Insert the Protection Strip that will best fit over your grips into the back side of the slip ring. I used the medium here:

Push the strip all the way to the bottom lip in the Slip Ring:

Slip the entire Ring unit over the throttle hand grip. Make sure the Protection Strip is still in place. If the unit won’t slip over your grips with the strip, slip the unit on without the strip, then place it in:

Leave a small gap between the back side of the Slip Ring and the switch housing:

Tighten up the 4 set screws in an alternating pattern of about 1 turn each. Tighten them until they get a good bite into the rubber, but don’t go through it. As you tighten, check that the Slip Ring remains straight on the throttle.

They have to be in far enough to be at least flush with the outer ring:

All tightened up:

Notice the gaps between the rubber and throttle. I’ll comment on this more at the end.

Reattach the Ring Cap with the 4 phillips screws:

Rotate the Clamp until the Cam Support is positioned directly under the bottom of the motorcycle brake lever. Carefully squeeze the clamp together, until it snaps into the engaged position. Do not allow the Cam Support to push up against the brake lever or it could bend the Spring Plate.

Make sure the catch pin is fully engaged into the hole of the spring plate. This is looking straight up from the bottom:
Unengaged:

Engaged:

Hold the throttle and the engaged unit so the Cam Support touches the bottom of the brake lever:

Slide the Cam (the black thing) against the back of the brake lever and tighten the Cam Screw just snug enough so that you can still slide the cam with your fingers. You’ll thank me later if you leave it a little loose now.

Looking up at the cam screw from the bottom:

Release the cruise control to the off position by pushing the Manual Release Lever forward:

Loosen the swivel lock screw:

Loosen the slide lock screw:

It’s not easy to tell in the photo, but the swivel/slide part of the assembly is now bent 90 degrees and runs parallel with the brake lever:

Remove the lock nut from the motorcycles front brake pivot bolt. I used a 10mm socket:

Attach the End Bracket (L shaped piece) to the pivot lock bolt and replace the brake pivot lock nut. Don’t let the End Bracket turn while tightening the brake pivot nut. The directions say to tighten the brake lock nut back to manufacturers spec. Heh. My torque wrench is the size of a small cheater bar and used it to put my mustang engine together. Not really for light torques, but if you’re interested it’s 5.1 ft-lbs for the pivot nut.

Make sure the throttle lock is unengaged as you do this next part!

Pull the brake lever to engage the front brake and hold it. I don’t think I need a pic of this. :-)

You will raise or lower the Cam height by sliding the End Bracket Lock Screw up or down in the slot of the End Bracket. The wrench is on the lock screw, but we aren’t tightening it up yet:

Position the top of the Cam (the black thing) so it just touches the bottom of the brake lever and hold it there:

Release the brake lever and slightly snug with the 5/16” wrench so the End Bracket Lock Screw is just tight enough to hold this position. Do not completely tighten yet!

Tighten the Swivel Lock Screw:

Tighten the slide lock screw. Hold the whole brakeaway unit so that it remains straight while you tighten:

The Clamp Ring should be straight on the throttle:

Place a 1/2” open end wrench on the square block end of the Slide to keep the slide from turning as you tighten the End Bracket Lock Screw:

Pull your brake lever to check for clearance. It should just touch the top of the Cam and completely clear the back of the Clamp:

Check your throttle movement. It should still move freely.

Engage and disengage the cruise control 3 or 4 times by squeezing the Clamp together and then releasing it with the Manual Release Lever.

Engage:

Release:

If necessary, adjust the position of the Clamp Ring until it is aligned and centered in the groove of the Slip Ring by means of the Slide Lock Screw:

The Clamp Ring should remain straight on the throttle when you’re done:

Tighten up all the screws.

Turn the throttle and engage the cruise control by pushing forward on the Engage Button. It should easily engage:

IMPORTANT NOTE !!!
The Cam or the Cam Support should not make contact with the brake lever during engagement. This will interfere with the unit becoming fully engaged. The Cam Support should rest just under the brake lever and the Cam should rest just behind the brake lever when the cruise control is fully engaged.

Pull the front brake lever, this should push down on the Cam and release your cruise control easily and quickly without binding or hesitation. The space between the Cam and your brake lever should not exceed 1/16”. If yours turned out like mine, then the Cam wound up being too far back:

If you took my advice from earlier and left the Cam a little loose, then this will be easy to adjust. Engage the throttle lock and then just slide the Cam forward until it bumps up against the brake handle. Tighten the Cam Screw and you are done!

With the cruise control in the off position check the throttle return, it should return normally with no hesitation or bind. Binding of the throttle is usually caused by something in the installation being twisted or misaligned.

Recheck that everything is tight and enjoy.

Addendum:

After about a week of use, I noticed that the Clamp Ring was no longer straight on the throttle. This was most likely caused by me not tightening the 4 set screws enough onto the Protection Strip in the Slip Ring. But what I didn’t like was that there was a gap between the inner Slip Ring and throttle itself that the Strip didn’t fill, so what I did was take the thick Protection Strip and sanded it down bit by bit until it just fit in the gap. I made it a tight fit and I guarantee it hasn’t budged since. On the down side, the lock is now a little stiffer to engage. For those of you wondering, the thin Strip + the medium Strip equals the thick Strip, so you can’t combine them to create a 4th size.