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Ok guys, this isn’t a complete step by step instructional for the installation of the RoxSpeed riser, but a set of hints and helpers from someone who just finished putting one on. Installation is a lot easier with a bike stand only because I am old and fat and bending over is not one of my favorite things. The installation is in two steps. The riser itself and then the cables. RoxSpeed suggests that you do the cable work first and I found that to be a good idea.
First thing you do is take the tank off ! There’s a lot of opportunity to ding and scratch the tank so get it out of the way first. This is best done with a very empty tank. For those of you who haven’t taken a tank off before, remove the seat and take out the two hold down bolts. Block up the back of the tank with a piece of 2x4 and release the clamp holding that rear fuel line. Just stick a very small screw driver in the hose clip and pop it with the heel of your hand and it will release. Be ready with some kind of plug when you pull the hose off because gas will gush out. Now reach under the left side of the tank to the main fuel line valve and turn off the valve (1/4 turn). Slip the clip back from the valve and pull the fuel line off. The tank comes off backwards, so just wiggle the tank left and right and pull it back until you feel it release, stop there. Now you need to lift up the back of the tank and find the electrical connector from the low fuel indicator and unplug it. Finally there are two gas vapor lines at the forward left side of the tank in a ridiculous location, don’t worry about them now, just pull the tank back and up and pull till the lines pop off their connections. I’ll tell you how to reconnect them later. Now that you have the precious tank out of harms way, the serious work can begin.

The first thing is to disconnect the old brake lines, the splitter block underneath the headlight and get rid of it. Next, trace the electrical sheath from the starter housing on the right handlebar back into the tank area and unplug the two connectors. Pull the line back through the wire looms and reroute the electrical sheath behind the right fork (it doesn’t need to be in the looms and saves replacing the wiring harness), reconnect. Now replace the brake lines and bleed the system, making sure you have solid brakes. Next, remove the throttle block filter housing and disconnect the throttle cables at the throttle block and at the handlebar twist grip. Install new cables, making sure to run them through both wire looms. Adjust for smooth operation and tighten all the nuts down good. Check for smooth operation with handlebars turned full left and right. The Armor Coat cables are quality products and they should work smoothly. Once you are satisfied with this step, put the filter housing back on. Now move to the left side handlebar and do the same thing with the electrical sheath from the horn & turn signal housing, disconnect from the main wiring harness in the tank area and pull it out of the looms and route behind the left fork, reconnect.

Now comes the hard part. Remove the plastic cover (one bolt) on the right side under the seating area, remove the oxygen sensor cover plate (3 bolts) and now loosen the clutch connector cover plate by removing its 4 bolts. The bottom bolt is really hard to get at and I had to cut off an allen wrench to get it out. Now, it would be great to remove this cover plate and get it out of the way, but that would take removing the exhaust pipe! Not to worry, just shift the plate backwards and you can get to everything that is necessary. Loosen the 2 nuts on the clutch cable down at the clutch and push the cable housing back (away from you) out of the holder Go back up to the handlebar and take the pivot bolt out of the clutch lever (don’t loose the spacer). Loosen the adjuster, align the slots and pull the lever out and remove the cable from the lever. Go back to the other end and remove the cable from the clutch lever down at the clutch housing. The retainer holding the cable end in place is a “bend tab”, just grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers, bend it up out of the way, remove the tension from the cable and pull it out. Now, essentially reverse the procedure and install the new cable (don’t forget to put the “bend tab” back down in place and route the new cable through the wire loom). I attached the new cable to the old cable to pull it through the maze of wires and hoses in the tank area. Don’t forget to adjust the clutch cable later.

Now the cable work should be done and you can move on to the riser itself.

Follow the instructions from RoxSpeed as they are pretty good. Note that the riser is in three parts, the two end pieces and the center piece. Remove the chromed plastic bezel from the speedo and remove the clamps holding your handlebars, watch out !, the bars will fall as soon as you take the tension off the hold down bolts (I hope you haven’t put the tank back on yet or you may have a dinged tank now). Make sure that you install the riser in its assembled condition (all three pieces) when you tighten it in the original bike clamps. This will make sure the alignment is correct. I leaned the riser back as far as it would go (and still have room for the speedo bezel) to take full advantage of the riser (about 2” up and 2’ back, and like every inch of it!). Tighten the clamps onto the riser. Then take the center piece of the riser out and reinstall the speedo bezel, then install the handlebar, being sure to center it left and right. Tighten the 4 screws securely until it will take the weight of the handlebar.

Now let’s put the tank back on. First spray the two rubber “donuts” with some WD-40 (that will allow the alignment grips to slide back on easily). Now for those two pesky vapor lines. Its best to stand on the left side of the bike, cradle the (very empty) tank in your left hand, hold the tank very close to the bike and reach around with your right hand (you wont be able to see what you are doing) and push the two vapor lines back onto the nipples, now roll the tank over onto the bike, wiggle the tank forward till the alignment grips seat, reconnect the electrical low fuel line, the main fuel line, the back fuel line, install the hold down bolts and don’t forget to turn the fuel valve back on. Pinch that rear fuel line clip back together with a pair of pliers. Put the seat back on and test the handlebars for position up and down, tighten the 4 screws securely.

You should be done. Entire process (if you are doing this solo, and depending on how long it takes to bleed the brake lines, it should take about 2-1/2 to 3 hours).

Hope this helps !

Any installation tips would be very welcome, I expect mine to come in the mail next week.

Is the installation difficult? Do you need use a motorcycle stand to do it?

I've read there are some difficult parts for novice tinkerers like myself - the limit of my experience is installing RSTD bars and new grips, new muffler, driver backrest, engine bars
~ kevin