This was beyond a doubt the longest install I have done to date. Not too difficult, just tedious. I've changed this how-to a few times now, so the consistency in the photos isn't up to what I would like - the subject matter will be correct, but you may notice little details in the background that change. I also made a few mistakes along the way, and I’ll point those out.
With that said, I hope that this will be of some use.
For the purposes of this install, the LEFT side will correspond to the CLUTCH side of the bike, while the RIGHT will be the THROTTLE side.
UPDATE: Ghilmas offered a better method to run some of the lamp wiring. His suggestion is easier than my way, so I went back and re-did some of the photos to show this. Never underestimate my ability to overlook the obvious. :)
So let’s begin!
What you will need:
4mm hex tool
5mm hex tool
14mm socket or wrench
Short Phillips screwdriver
Standard Phillips screwdriver
Drill with 4mm bit
Razor blade, such as a box cutter
(1) male bullet connector
A few small zip ties
The shoe box the passing lamps came in
This is what you will get. I chose the halogen lamps:
Prep your work area. I don’t want to hear any crying if you drop a wrench on your fender!:
The decorative cross-member under the headlight will be removed first. It is being held on by two 4mm bolts:
Here is the right one:
And the left:
A “spike” is helping hold on the cross-member. It’ll take a bit of tugging to pull it out of the rubber grommet. Here you can see the “spike” and the grommet it just came out of:
Next we’ll remove the headlight assembly. It is held on by four 4mm hex bolts. We’ll start with the two on top:
Then the other:
The other two are at approximately the 4 o’clock & 6 o’clock position underneath. Here’s the one at 6 o’clock:
(You may notice that the blinker assembly is missing. I had already tried to remove it, which is something you don’t want to do yet.)
Let’s remove it:
Here’s the last one:
Remove it as well:
Now give the headlight assembly a tug. If it doesn’t come out very easily, there’s something to try. There’s a Phillips screw underneath the headlight bucket:
This screw is holding a retaining clip inside that the headlight assembly slides into. Loosen this screw (do not remove!) which will in turn loosen up the retaining clip:
Now you should be able to pull out the headlight assembly easily:
The wiring harness for the headlight runs through a clip on top. Remove the wire:
There’s a three-prong plug connecting to the headlight:
Carefully wiggle it off the tines:
Here’s the now empty headlight bucket. The black bags on either side are held closed by Velcro and contain the various wiring plugs:
NOTE: If you loosened the Phillips screw, tighten it back up now so you won’t forget later.
Here’s the one on the left:
The surprise inside:
Pulling that mess out you can see what’s there. To the right, between the white and clear plugs, you can see a small white plug wrapped in electrical tape. This is the infamous accessory plug:
Here’s the accessory plug unwrapped. Keep track of it, as we will tap into it later:
Here you can see the blinker wires coming in from the bottom of the headlight bucket:
Follow the wires up to the bundle on the left to find the blinker plugs:
NOTE: The grey plug corresponds to the left turn signal, while the black is the right turn signal.
Disconnect the right plug by pulling up on the tab:
Disconnect the left plug in the same manner:
Pull the blinker wires out through the bottom of the headlight bucket:
Time to remove the blinker assemblies. Each assembly is held in place by a single 5mm hex bolt. This is the right one:
Remove the 5mm bolt. Notice that the blinker bracket is behind the windshield bracket.
The blinker bracket has a small metal tab on the end. Rotate the assembly counter-clockwise, like turning a long-handled doorknob, to remove the blinker assembly and remove the tab from the hole it’s in:
The freed right assembly:
The bolt for the left side:
Remove the left blinker assembly in a similar fashion, only rotating it clockwise this time:
There is a bracket underneath the headlight bucket being held in place by two 5mm hex bolts. This bracket actually runs up the back of the headlight bucket and is what the bucket bolts to:
Looking in the headlight bucket, you can see the four 8mm bolts holding it the bracket. Two are at the top & bottom center, and the other two are center left & right by the wiring bundles:
Top center bolt:
Right center bolt:
Left center bolt:
Remove the four 8mm bolts:
This won’t remove the headlight bucket, but it will allow it to be moved enough out of our way to work. Now that we have some wiggle room, remove the two 5mm hex bolts holding the headlight bucket bracket to the frame:
NOTE: I put a towel over my socket wrench so that it would not scratch the bucket. ALSO, these hex bolts are somewhat SOFT, so make sure you are straight into the bolt. Otherwise, you run the risk of stripping the head. I know, I almost did. What I wound up doing was hammering on the socket extension to seat my hex driver firmly into the bolt head. After that I was able to get the bolt out easily.
Remove the other 5mm hex bolt:
NOTE: You will not be removing this bracket, so don’t try to pull it out. You will be discarding the two 5mm hex bolts you just removed though, and replaced with longer ones from the install kit.
The mounting bracket for the passing lamp bar comes already attached and will have to be removed. It is held on by two 5mm hex bolts on either end and one 4mm hex bolt in the middle:
Remove one 5mm hex bolt:
Remove the other 5mm hex bolt:
Remove the center 4mm hex bolt:
Here’s the passing lamp bracket:
This is the hardware for the passing lamp bracket. The two short 5mm hex bolts will go in the old blinker mount holes and the two longer 5mm hex bolts replace the two 5mm hex bolts you just removed from the headlight bucket bracket. The two black spacers go between the headlight bucket bracket and the passing lamp bracket:
NOTE: The Yamaha directions say these are 8mm bolts – they are NOT!
The hardware in its respective positions:
Now the fun begins, getting the bracket into place. Have you seen the puzzle that is made of two nails twisted into pigtails and intertwined? The trick is to twist them in such a way as to get them apart. Well, that’s sort of what you have to do here, and I’m sorry I don’t have pics of the gyrations I went through to get this thing into place. Suffice to say, you do NOT have to remove the brake line that is in the way. You can do it, it just takes patience. Start by running the bracket behind the brake line and just wiggle and twist it about to get it into place. I think I started higher up the brake line where there is more space and then slid it down.
Here’s the bracket in place after all that effort:
Sort-of looks like Hannibal Lecter’s mask, doesn’t it?
The bracket ready to be bolted into place:
NOTE: The wings go BEHIND the windshield mounts, like the blinker mounts did.
OK, I don’t have pics of this, but hopefully I don’t need them. Snug into place the two short 5mm hex bolts that go through the windshield mounts, but don’t tighten them down yet.
Now that you have a bit of tension on the bracket, put the spacers into place. Remember that they go between the headlight bucket bracket and the passing lamp bracket.
Slipping the right one in:
It’s difficult to see, but the spacer is in-line with the hole:
Murphy strikes. I’ve lost the next few photos that would have gone here. Ah well.
Anyway, slide the spacer in place on the left side and finger tight the long bolts that will connect the passing lamp mount to the headlight bucket mount and ultimately to the frame. Now that everything is in place, remove each bolt in turn, apply a little Loctite and torque each of the four 5mm hex bolts to 17 ft-lbs.
Here is the now installed passing lamp mounting bracket:
NOTE: Notice the flange sticking out in the middle (Hannibal’s nose). When it comes time to put the passing lamp bar into place, that flange goes on top of the passing lamp bar.
Re-attach the headlight bucket to the headlight bracket with the four 8mm bolts you removed earlier. If you are fastidious, torque to 5.1 ft-lbs:
If you loosened up the Phillips screw that’s underneath the headlight bucket and didn’t tighten it up yet, now’s your chance:
On either end of the passing lamp bar are the blinker mounts that have to be removed. Each one is being held in place by a 4mm hex bolt.
Remove the left 4mm hex bolt:
Removed. Don’t lose the parts!:
Remove the right 4mm hex bolt:
Time to work on the passing lamps.
There is a Phillips screw on the bottom of the right housing holding the lamp together:
Remove the Phillips screw:
Here’s the screw. Note the small, clear plastic washer on it. It’s easy to lose, so be careful:
Pull the lamp apart. There is a tab on top on the ring that fits into a slot on the housing. Once you have the lamp apart a bit, push up on the ring to work out the tab. It will take a bit of effort:
The grounding wire for the lamp is screwed into place on the bulb housing via a Phillips screw. Remove the ground wire and replace the screw:
The red power wire is connected to the blue bulb wire via a spade connector. Just pull it apart:
The housing and the lamp are now separated:
Do the same thing for the left lamp:
NOTE: The left lamp has the toggle switch and two wires coming out.
Install the hollow carriage bolt through the left lamp housing:
NOTE: The lamp wires will be running through this bolt.
There is a collar that will go between the lamp and the mount. The interior of one end is concave:
The other end is cylindrical:
Slide it onto the carriage bolt, concave side down, so that the concave side will be against the mount. This collar is what is going to allow the lamp to be pivoted about and aimed:
NOTE: Ignore the fact that the lamp is put together here. I forgot to put the collar on the first time and had to go back and do it again.
This is the hardware that will attach the lamp housing and bolt to the passing lamp mount. The nut is 14mm, not 10mm like the Yamaha directions state:
Slide the carriage bolt through the mount and fasten with the washer concave side up and secure with the 14mm nut. Torque to 17 ft-lbs:
The left housing mounted:
NOTE: Ignore the fact the collar is missing. I told you I forgot and had to go back and do it again!
Do the same thing for the right lamp.
Install the hollow carriage bolt through the right lamp housing:
Slide on the collar:
Secure with the washer and 14mm nut. Torque to 17 ft-lbs:
The right housing mounted:
NOTE: Again, the collar is missing. Don’t you forget it!
Wiring the lamps.
The next trick is to get the lamp wires through the hollow carriage bolts. The directions make it sound so easy - “route wiring through the hollow bolts”. Yah. Not quite as easy as that. If there’s a way to make a simple job difficult, I’ll find it.
Find the red wire that has the male bullet connectors on both ends:
Let’s start with the right side. Run one end of the wire through the carriage bolt:
And into the lamp housing:
Connect it to the bulb wire:
I'm NOT going to connect the other end quite yet. Let’s deal with the power wire next.
OK, the power wire is the one with the in-line fuse and the male bullet connector on the long end. From the indication of the end that the bullet connector is on, it is implied that the fuser holder is supposed to go inside the headlight bucket. Ummm, NO? Once everything is together it will be very difficult to get the headlight off to change a blown fuse, so I’m going to reverse the wire and have the fuse holder on the outside under the passing lamp mount.
NOTE: By reversing the power wire, I am sort-of violating one of the basic wiring rules. You should always have the fuse as close to the power source as possible, but since I am not connecting directly to the battery, which is where the rule would really apply, plus the wire we will be tapping into is fused as well, I'm not that concerned about it. I just wanted to make you aware, though.
ONLY IF you want the fuse holder on the outside, then follow the next four steps for the wire!
NOTE: If you do, then running the wire through the left housing is going to pose a couple of extra challenges.
What we're going to be doing is removing the existing bullet connector and replacing it with a spade connector later (if you use a T-Tap like I did, otherwise you will use the provided splice-tap) and putting a bullet connector on the short fuse-holder end, which currently does not have a connector.
On the fuse-holder end, Strip the wire:
Push on a male bullet connector:
Crimp the connector on:
Good to go:
Let’s discuss the wires in the left lamp housing for a moment, and which ones will connect to what.
Here are the wires:
One wire will connect to the right lamp, and the other will connect to the fuse wire for power, but bundled together as they are, it’s a little difficult to tell which one’s which.
So, I unwrapped the wires to separate them:
That’s better! Now, you can see that there is a single wire connected to the top pole of the switch (I’ll call it STAND-ALONE), and the other is shrink-wrapped to the bulb wire.
OK, the STAND-ALONE wire will connect to the FUSE wire for power,
And the shrink-wrapped wire will connect to the RIGHT lamp via the connecting wire.
NOTE: If you separated the lamp wires like I did, then you may want to tape them back together with electrical tape, even though I didn't. I meant to, but forgot. :)
Now, back to the install!
Take apart the fuse holder for now, so we can work with the wire:
NOTE: If you want to run the unaltered fuse wire as Yamaha intended, then do the following steps (that is, the fuse holder will wind up being in the headlight bucket and the long end with the original bullet connector will go into the lamp housing):
Take the existing male connector of the fuse wire and run it through the carriage bolt:
Into the housing:
Connect the fuse wire to the STAND-ALONE lamp wire:
If you are here, then you want the fuse holder on the outside. The challenge is that the short end of the fuse wire is too short to run up into the lamp housing, so you are going to have to run the STAND-ALONE wire OUT of the housing. Unfortunately , the female connector with boot will not go through the hollow bolt, so you will have to remove the boot. Or, if you have the patience and talent, wiggle the boot through the bolt.
REMINDER: You will be doing this to the STAND-ALONE wire.
I took a razor blade and sliced the boot from the crimp back:
Then just pulled the boot off:
Run the now naked female connector through the hollow bolt:
And out the bottom:
Slip the boot back on:
NOTE: You may want to apply some silicon sealant to the boot to close the cut.
Connect the fuse holder to the STAND-ALONE lamp wire:
Now back to the wire you already connected to the right passing lamp. Run the other male end of the connecting wire through the carriage bolt of the left lamp. It’s going to be snug, but a little patience and it will go:
NOTE: You may have to push it through with something like a nail, or if all else fails, remove the bootie:
Into the lamp housing:
Connect it to the lamp wire that is shrink-wrapped to the bulb wire:
OK, the wiring on the passing lamp bar is done!
Now to re-assemble the passing lamps.
NOTE: The observant may notice in the following photos that the wires we just ran don't look the same in the photos. These photos were taken when I originally installed the wires. The photos you just saw above were when I re-ran the wires to follow Ghilmas' suggestion. What all that means is, just ignore what you see in the background.
Starting with the right lamp. Re-connect the ground and power wires:
Remove the black rubber gasket from the lamp:
Align the notch on the gasket with the one at the top of the housing:
Install the gasket to the lamp housing:
Align the tab on the lamp ring with the top (conveniently labeled TOP on the glass) of the lamp:
Attach the lamp to the housing, inserting the tab into the notch:
Re-install the Phillips screw into the bottom:
Same thing for the left lamp. Remove the gasket from the lamp:
Install the gasket onto the housing:
Re-connect the wires:
Re-connect the lamp to the housing:
Re-install the Phillips screw:
< not pictured >
The lamps fully put together:
NOTE: Ignore the wires sticking out the bottom of the lamps. This shot was taken the first time around, when I did the wiring the hard way. If you ran the wires up into the lamp housing (as suggested by Ghilmas), instead of out, then you will not see them here.
Now to mount the signals.
Remove the old mounting bracket from the left blinker by taking out the Phillips-head screw. The screw is located inside the bracket, just follow the wire down to it:
The left blinker sans bracket:
NOTE: Yamaha recommends drilling the blinker to allow water drainage. I will discuss this at the end of the install, but if you plan on doing this, now may be the time.
Remove the bracket from the right blinker:
NOTE: Drill the drain holes if desired (noted at the end of the install).
Find the left blinker mount you removed from the passing lamp bar earlier and one of the associated gaskets from the install kit:
Set the gasket in the end of the mount:
Run the wire through the mount and up to the blinker:
Finally attach the mount to the blinker by using the supplied Phillips screw:
The completed left blinker assembly:
Same thing for the right blinker. Fetch the mount and gasket:
Seat the gasket:
Run the mount up to the blinker:
Screw the bracket onto the right blinker:
Completed right blinker assembly:
Install the right blinker assembly to the passing lamp bar by inserting the tab on the blinker mount into the slot on the lamp bar and seating the assembly into position. Screw into place by using the Phillips screw that was removed to initially take the blinker bracket off the bar.
NOTE: Make sure the passing lamp wire and the blinker wire run under the blinker mount.
Install the left blinker assembly to the passing lamp bar like you did the right one:
NOTE: Make sure the passing lamp wire(s) and the blinker wire run under the blinker mount.
< not pictured >
The completed passing lamp & blinker assembly:
NOTE: Route the wiring from the passing lamps and turn signals along the underside of the passing lamp bar and out through the two notches in the rear.
Now to connect the wiring in the headlight bucket. The install kit does come with two splice taps, but I’m going to use T-Taps instead, since I like them better. Here’s a T-Tap. It has two parts, the clamshell piece is what clamps around the wire, the male spade connector will plug into the spine of the T-Tap:
NOTE: If you want to use the supplied splice taps, look at the end of the install page – I’ll show you those and how they work there. If you do use the splice taps, then you WILL NOT be attaching the spade connectors to either the ground or power wires.
Here’s a demonstration of installing the T-Tap onto the ground wire of the headlight plug, but DO NOT PUT IT HERE! The supplied ground wire will not reach from here to the passing lamp mount. Trust me. Where you will be connecting this is on the ground wire of the ACCESSORY plug.
With that out of the way, now, all you have to do is bend the T-Tap over the wire you want to splice into, with the wire resting in the notch of metal spline:
Take your pliers and press together until it snaps into place:
T-Tap in place and ready for use. The spine is where the male spade will plug in:
What I’m going to use for my ground and power is the accessory plug. The accessory plug wiring runs through the same circuit as the headlight.
Connect the T-Tap to the black wire of the accessory plug:
Now, depending on how you want the lamps to operate will determine where you splice in the other T-Tap for power. For me I wanted to have the passing lamps on all the time, regardless of high-beam or low-beam (yah, I know, possibly illegal). If I understand correctly, the law states that the accessory lights should be turned off when headlights are on high-beam.
OK, here are the possibilities:
On all the time – green wire with blue stripe (accessory plug power wire)
On with High beam – Yellow wire
On with Low beam – Green wire
You decide how you want it to run.
I spliced into the accessory plug for power:
NOTE: Ignore the ground wire that’s already connected, we’ll get to that next.
The supplied ground wire has a ring connector on one end. On the other end we need to connect a male spade for the T-Tap. Begin by stripping the wire:
NOTE: If you will be using the supplied splice tap, then you will NOT be attaching the spade connector. Follow the directions for using a splice tap at the end of the install to connect the lamp ground wire to the harness.
Crimp the spade on:
Ready for use:
Run the spade end of the ground wire up from underneath into the headlight bucket:
Plug it into the T-Tap on the ground wire of the accessory plug:
Prepping the passing lamp power wire.
NOTE: If you will be using the supplied splice tap, then you will NOT be attaching the spade connector. Follow the directions for using a splice tap at the end of the install to connect the lamp power wire to the harness.
Cut the existing male bullet connector off:
NOTE: Only do this if you are going to be mounting the fuse holder on the outside like I did. Otherwise, just skip this step and install the spade on the other end.
Strip the insulation off:
Slide the male spade connector onto the wire:
Crimp the connector:
The male spade connector crimped on:
Like the ground wire, run the male spade end of the power wire up underneath into the headlight bucket . Plug the male spade into the T-Tap you connected for power. For me, it’s the accessory plug:
Bundle all the wire connectors back up into the wiring packet. Use a couple of zip ties to snug up your additional wires if desired:
We’re headed towards final assembly! Getting close!
Set the passing lamp bar up under the headlight bucket, as we are ready to make the final wiring connections. I found the shoebox that the lamps came in to be a good support:
NOTE: Route the wiring from the passing lamps and turn signals along the underside of the passing lamp bar and out through the two notches in the rear of the bar.
Run the blinker wires back into the headlight bucket and re-connect them:
Re-connect the fuse-holder:
Re-installing the headlight.
Re-connect the plug back into the headlight:
Re-run the headlight wiring back through the retaining clip on top:
Seat the headlight assembly back into the bucket:
Screw back in the four 4mm hex bolts to secure the headlight:
NOTE: This is your LAST CHANCE to tighten up that little Phillips head screw underneath the headlight bucket!
Nearing the finish line!
Slide the passing lamp assembly onto the bracket under the headlight, making sure no wires are pinched and the passing lamp bar goes under the flange in the middle of the mount.
Here it is in place:
Time to put back the three hex bolts you took out when you initially removed the mounting bracket from the passing lamp bar. The two 5mm hex bolts go in either outer hole, while the single 4mm hex bolt goes in the middle hole, where the ground wire will be attached. Torque each to 11 ft-lbs. I put Loctite on mine because I don't plan on having to remove the bar to get into the headlight(I'll explain that at the end), but I’m not sure I recommend it.
NOTE: The ground wire is secured to the middle bolt, as you see here:
Final wiring cleanup.
I tucked the fuse holder up underneath the left side of the passing lamp bar. Now won’t that be easier to get to if the fuse burns out?
The fuse holder is nice and snug in this position, but I zip-tied it to the blinker wiring to for a little additional support:
WHEW! DONE! Let’s test it!
Fire your baby up and this is what you should see:
Test to make sure everything still works.
NOTE: Since I wired the passing lamps into the accessory plug, my lamps WILL NOT turn off.
Toggle switch on the passing lamp:
And back on:
CONGRATULATIONS! YOU DID IT!
For water drainage, Yamaha recommends drilling two 4mm holes in the blinker assemblies, at the base of the neck and at the very bottom under the bulb.
I haven't decided yet if I am going to do this or not. I may just drill the one in the bottom.
With the passing lamp now in place, it is now very difficult to remove the headlight if necessary. Forum member “therocp” had the good idea of cutting down an Allen wrench so that it would fit between the passing lamp bar and the headlight bucket so the lower hex bolts could be removed without having to remove the passing lamp bar. I tried it and it works fine. The only challenge is putting the bottom ones back in. Patience and small hands are the key!
Here’s how much I cut off:
I mentioned when I was installing the T-Taps onto the accessory plug that the install kit came with two wire splice taps. These are permanent connectors, which is why I dislike using them.
This is how to connect one.
Run the new wire into the hole beside the spine. It will stop just over half-way through:
Snap the wire you want to splice into, in the other hole:
Here you can see that the wire can be inserted from the side:
Like the T-Tap, use pliers to snap the clip closed. This will push the spline through the insulation and make the connection:
Want to impress your bar buddies with your technical prowess? Then use a matching female plug to connect to the accessory plug. No splicing!:
I hope you found this somewhat useful and will provide sufficient information for you to decide if you want to tackle this project or not.
Enjoy the ride!
Potestatem obscuri lateris nescis