OEM Passing Lamp Install

BoomerSooner's picture

This was beyond a doubt the longest install I have done to date. Not too difficult, just tedious. I've changed this how-to a few times now, so the consistency in the photos isn't up to what I would like - the subject matter will be correct, but you may notice little details in the background that change. I also made a few mistakes along the way, and I’ll point those out.

With that said, I hope that this will be of some use.

For the purposes of this install, the LEFT side will correspond to the CLUTCH side of the bike, while the RIGHT will be the THROTTLE side.

UPDATE: Ghilmas offered a better method to run some of the lamp wiring. His suggestion is easier than my way, so I went back and re-did some of the photos to show this. Never underestimate my ability to overlook the obvious. :)

So let’s begin!

What you will need:

4mm hex tool
5mm hex tool
8mm socket
14mm socket or wrench
Short Phillips screwdriver
Standard Phillips screwdriver
Pliers

Recommended:
Loctite
Torque wrench

Suggested:
Drill with 4mm bit
Silicon sealant
Razor blade, such as a box cutter
(2) T-Taps
(1) male bullet connector
Wire stripper/crimper
A few small zip ties
Electrical tape
The shoe box the passing lamps came in

This is what you will get. I chose the halogen lamps:

Prep your work area. I don’t want to hear any crying if you drop a wrench on your fender!:

The decorative cross-member under the headlight will be removed first. It is being held on by two 4mm bolts:

Here is the right one:

And the left:

A “spike” is helping hold on the cross-member. It’ll take a bit of tugging to pull it out of the rubber grommet. Here you can see the “spike” and the grommet it just came out of:

Next we’ll remove the headlight assembly. It is held on by four 4mm hex bolts. We’ll start with the two on top:

Remove one:

Then the other:

All gone:

The other two are at approximately the 4 o’clock & 6 o’clock position underneath. Here’s the one at 6 o’clock:
(You may notice that the blinker assembly is missing. I had already tried to remove it, which is something you don’t want to do yet.)

Let’s remove it:

Here’s the last one:

Remove it as well:

Now give the headlight assembly a tug. If it doesn’t come out very easily, there’s something to try. There’s a Phillips screw underneath the headlight bucket:

This screw is holding a retaining clip inside that the headlight assembly slides into. Loosen this screw (do not remove!) which will in turn loosen up the retaining clip:

Now you should be able to pull out the headlight assembly easily:

The wiring harness for the headlight runs through a clip on top. Remove the wire:

There’s a three-prong plug connecting to the headlight:

Carefully wiggle it off the tines:

Here’s the now empty headlight bucket. The black bags on either side are held closed by Velcro and contain the various wiring plugs:

NOTE: If you loosened the Phillips screw, tighten it back up now so you won’t forget later.

Here’s the one on the left:

The surprise inside:

Pulling that mess out you can see what’s there. To the right, between the white and clear plugs, you can see a small white plug wrapped in electrical tape. This is the infamous accessory plug:

Here’s the accessory plug unwrapped. Keep track of it, as we will tap into it later:

Here you can see the blinker wires coming in from the bottom of the headlight bucket:

Follow the wires up to the bundle on the left to find the blinker plugs:
NOTE: The grey plug corresponds to the left turn signal, while the black is the right turn signal.

Disconnect the right plug by pulling up on the tab:

Disconnect the left plug in the same manner:

Pull the blinker wires out through the bottom of the headlight bucket:

Time to remove the blinker assemblies. Each assembly is held in place by a single 5mm hex bolt. This is the right one:

Remove the 5mm bolt. Notice that the blinker bracket is behind the windshield bracket.

The blinker bracket has a small metal tab on the end. Rotate the assembly counter-clockwise, like turning a long-handled doorknob, to remove the blinker assembly and remove the tab from the hole it’s in:

The freed right assembly:

The bolt for the left side:

Remove the left blinker assembly in a similar fashion, only rotating it clockwise this time:


There is a bracket underneath the headlight bucket being held in place by two 5mm hex bolts. This bracket actually runs up the back of the headlight bucket and is what the bucket bolts to:

Looking in the headlight bucket, you can see the four 8mm bolts holding it the bracket. Two are at the top & bottom center, and the other two are center left & right by the wiring bundles:

Top center bolt:

Bottom center:

Right center bolt:

Left center bolt:

Remove the four 8mm bolts:



This won’t remove the headlight bucket, but it will allow it to be moved enough out of our way to work. Now that we have some wiggle room, remove the two 5mm hex bolts holding the headlight bucket bracket to the frame:
NOTE: I put a towel over my socket wrench so that it would not scratch the bucket. ALSO, these hex bolts are somewhat SOFT, so make sure you are straight into the bolt. Otherwise, you run the risk of stripping the head. I know, I almost did. What I wound up doing was hammering on the socket extension to seat my hex driver firmly into the bolt head. After that I was able to get the bolt out easily.

Remove the other 5mm hex bolt:
NOTE: You will not be removing this bracket, so don’t try to pull it out. You will be discarding the two 5mm hex bolts you just removed though, and replaced with longer ones from the install kit.

The mounting bracket for the passing lamp bar comes already attached and will have to be removed. It is held on by two 5mm hex bolts on either end and one 4mm hex bolt in the middle:

Remove one 5mm hex bolt:

Remove the other 5mm hex bolt:

Remove the center 4mm hex bolt:

Here’s the passing lamp bracket:

This is the hardware for the passing lamp bracket. The two short 5mm hex bolts will go in the old blinker mount holes and the two longer 5mm hex bolts replace the two 5mm hex bolts you just removed from the headlight bucket bracket. The two black spacers go between the headlight bucket bracket and the passing lamp bracket:
NOTE: The Yamaha directions say these are 8mm bolts – they are NOT!

The hardware in its respective positions:

Now the fun begins, getting the bracket into place. Have you seen the puzzle that is made of two nails twisted into pigtails and intertwined? The trick is to twist them in such a way as to get them apart. Well, that’s sort of what you have to do here, and I’m sorry I don’t have pics of the gyrations I went through to get this thing into place. Suffice to say, you do NOT have to remove the brake line that is in the way. You can do it, it just takes patience. Start by running the bracket behind the brake line and just wiggle and twist it about to get it into place. I think I started higher up the brake line where there is more space and then slid it down.

Here’s the bracket in place after all that effort:
Sort-of looks like Hannibal Lecter’s mask, doesn’t it?

The bracket ready to be bolted into place:
NOTE: The wings go BEHIND the windshield mounts, like the blinker mounts did.

OK, I don’t have pics of this, but hopefully I don’t need them. Snug into place the two short 5mm hex bolts that go through the windshield mounts, but don’t tighten them down yet.
Now that you have a bit of tension on the bracket, put the spacers into place. Remember that they go between the headlight bucket bracket and the passing lamp bracket.

Slipping the right one in:

It’s difficult to see, but the spacer is in-line with the hole:

Murphy strikes. I’ve lost the next few photos that would have gone here. Ah well.
Anyway, slide the spacer in place on the left side and finger tight the long bolts that will connect the passing lamp mount to the headlight bucket mount and ultimately to the frame. Now that everything is in place, remove each bolt in turn, apply a little Loctite and torque each of the four 5mm hex bolts to 17 ft-lbs.

Here is the now installed passing lamp mounting bracket:
NOTE: Notice the flange sticking out in the middle (Hannibal’s nose). When it comes time to put the passing lamp bar into place, that flange goes on top of the passing lamp bar.

Re-attach the headlight bucket to the headlight bracket with the four 8mm bolts you removed earlier. If you are fastidious, torque to 5.1 ft-lbs:

If you loosened up the Phillips screw that’s underneath the headlight bucket and didn’t tighten it up yet, now’s your chance:

On either end of the passing lamp bar are the blinker mounts that have to be removed. Each one is being held in place by a 4mm hex bolt.

Remove the left 4mm hex bolt:

Removed. Don’t lose the parts!:

Remove the right 4mm hex bolt:

Time to work on the passing lamps.

There is a Phillips screw on the bottom of the right housing holding the lamp together:

Remove the Phillips screw:

Here’s the screw. Note the small, clear plastic washer on it. It’s easy to lose, so be careful:

Pull the lamp apart. There is a tab on top on the ring that fits into a slot on the housing. Once you have the lamp apart a bit, push up on the ring to work out the tab. It will take a bit of effort:

The grounding wire for the lamp is screwed into place on the bulb housing via a Phillips screw. Remove the ground wire and replace the screw:

The red power wire is connected to the blue bulb wire via a spade connector. Just pull it apart:

The housing and the lamp are now separated:

Do the same thing for the left lamp:
NOTE: The left lamp has the toggle switch and two wires coming out.


Install the hollow carriage bolt through the left lamp housing:
NOTE: The lamp wires will be running through this bolt.

There is a collar that will go between the lamp and the mount. The interior of one end is concave:

The other end is cylindrical:

Slide it onto the carriage bolt, concave side down, so that the concave side will be against the mount. This collar is what is going to allow the lamp to be pivoted about and aimed:
NOTE: Ignore the fact that the lamp is put together here. I forgot to put the collar on the first time and had to go back and do it again.

This is the hardware that will attach the lamp housing and bolt to the passing lamp mount. The nut is 14mm, not 10mm like the Yamaha directions state:

Slide the carriage bolt through the mount and fasten with the washer concave side up and secure with the 14mm nut. Torque to 17 ft-lbs:

The left housing mounted:
NOTE: Ignore the fact the collar is missing. I told you I forgot and had to go back and do it again!

Do the same thing for the right lamp.
Install the hollow carriage bolt through the right lamp housing:

Slide on the collar:

Secure with the washer and 14mm nut. Torque to 17 ft-lbs:

The right housing mounted:
NOTE: Again, the collar is missing. Don’t you forget it!

Wiring the lamps.

The next trick is to get the lamp wires through the hollow carriage bolts. The directions make it sound so easy - “route wiring through the hollow bolts”. Yah. Not quite as easy as that. If there’s a way to make a simple job difficult, I’ll find it.

Find the red wire that has the male bullet connectors on both ends:

Let’s start with the right side. Run one end of the wire through the carriage bolt:

And into the lamp housing:

Connect it to the bulb wire:

I'm NOT going to connect the other end quite yet. Let’s deal with the power wire next.

OK, the power wire is the one with the in-line fuse and the male bullet connector on the long end. From the indication of the end that the bullet connector is on, it is implied that the fuser holder is supposed to go inside the headlight bucket. Ummm, NO? Once everything is together it will be very difficult to get the headlight off to change a blown fuse, so I’m going to reverse the wire and have the fuse holder on the outside under the passing lamp mount.
NOTE: By reversing the power wire, I am sort-of violating one of the basic wiring rules. You should always have the fuse as close to the power source as possible, but since I am not connecting directly to the battery, which is where the rule would really apply, plus the wire we will be tapping into is fused as well, I'm not that concerned about it. I just wanted to make you aware, though.

ONLY IF you want the fuse holder on the outside, then follow the next four steps for the wire!
NOTE: If you do, then running the wire through the left housing is going to pose a couple of extra challenges.

***************************************************************************************
What we're going to be doing is removing the existing bullet connector and replacing it with a spade connector later (if you use a T-Tap like I did, otherwise you will use the provided splice-tap) and putting a bullet connector on the short fuse-holder end, which currently does not have a connector.

On the fuse-holder end, Strip the wire:

Bare wire:

Push on a male bullet connector:

Crimp the connector on:

Good to go:

***************************************************************************************
INTERMISSION

Let’s discuss the wires in the left lamp housing for a moment, and which ones will connect to what.

Here are the wires:

One wire will connect to the right lamp, and the other will connect to the fuse wire for power, but bundled together as they are, it’s a little difficult to tell which one’s which.

So, I unwrapped the wires to separate them:

That’s better! Now, you can see that there is a single wire connected to the top pole of the switch (I’ll call it STAND-ALONE), and the other is shrink-wrapped to the bulb wire.

OK, the STAND-ALONE wire will connect to the FUSE wire for power,
And the shrink-wrapped wire will connect to the RIGHT lamp via the connecting wire.

NOTE: If you separated the lamp wires like I did, then you may want to tape them back together with electrical tape, even though I didn't. I meant to, but forgot. :)

Now, back to the install!

*************************************************************************************

Take apart the fuse holder for now, so we can work with the wire:

NOTE: If you want to run the unaltered fuse wire as Yamaha intended, then do the following steps (that is, the fuse holder will wind up being in the headlight bucket and the long end with the original bullet connector will go into the lamp housing):
*************************************************************************************

Take the existing male connector of the fuse wire and run it through the carriage bolt:

Into the housing:

Connect the fuse wire to the STAND-ALONE lamp wire:

*************************************************************************************

Otherwise,
*************************************************************************************
If you are here, then you want the fuse holder on the outside. The challenge is that the short end of the fuse wire is too short to run up into the lamp housing, so you are going to have to run the STAND-ALONE wire OUT of the housing. Unfortunately , the female connector with boot will not go through the hollow bolt, so you will have to remove the boot. Or, if you have the patience and talent, wiggle the boot through the bolt.

REMINDER: You will be doing this to the STAND-ALONE wire.

I took a razor blade and sliced the boot from the crimp back:

Then just pulled the boot off:

Run the now naked female connector through the hollow bolt:

And out the bottom:

Slip the boot back on:
NOTE: You may want to apply some silicon sealant to the boot to close the cut.

Connect the fuse holder to the STAND-ALONE lamp wire:

**********************************************************************************

Now back to the wire you already connected to the right passing lamp. Run the other male end of the connecting wire through the carriage bolt of the left lamp. It’s going to be snug, but a little patience and it will go:
NOTE: You may have to push it through with something like a nail, or if all else fails, remove the bootie:

Into the lamp housing:

Connect it to the lamp wire that is shrink-wrapped to the bulb wire:

OK, the wiring on the passing lamp bar is done!

Now to re-assemble the passing lamps.
NOTE: The observant may notice in the following photos that the wires we just ran don't look the same in the photos. These photos were taken when I originally installed the wires. The photos you just saw above were when I re-ran the wires to follow Ghilmas' suggestion. What all that means is, just ignore what you see in the background.

Starting with the right lamp. Re-connect the ground and power wires:

Remove the black rubber gasket from the lamp:

Align the notch on the gasket with the one at the top of the housing:

Install the gasket to the lamp housing:

Gasket on:

Align the tab on the lamp ring with the top (conveniently labeled TOP on the glass) of the lamp:

Attach the lamp to the housing, inserting the tab into the notch:

Re-install the Phillips screw into the bottom:

Same thing for the left lamp. Remove the gasket from the lamp:

Install the gasket onto the housing:

Re-connect the wires:

Re-connect the lamp to the housing:

Re-install the Phillips screw:
< not pictured >

The lamps fully put together:
NOTE: Ignore the wires sticking out the bottom of the lamps. This shot was taken the first time around, when I did the wiring the hard way. If you ran the wires up into the lamp housing (as suggested by Ghilmas), instead of out, then you will not see them here.

Now to mount the signals.

Remove the old mounting bracket from the left blinker by taking out the Phillips-head screw. The screw is located inside the bracket, just follow the wire down to it:

The left blinker sans bracket:
NOTE: Yamaha recommends drilling the blinker to allow water drainage. I will discuss this at the end of the install, but if you plan on doing this, now may be the time.

Remove the bracket from the right blinker:

Right blinker:
NOTE: Drill the drain holes if desired (noted at the end of the install).

Find the left blinker mount you removed from the passing lamp bar earlier and one of the associated gaskets from the install kit:

Set the gasket in the end of the mount:

Run the wire through the mount and up to the blinker:

Finally attach the mount to the blinker by using the supplied Phillips screw:

The completed left blinker assembly:

Same thing for the right blinker. Fetch the mount and gasket:

Seat the gasket:

Run the mount up to the blinker:

Screw the bracket onto the right blinker:

Completed right blinker assembly:

Install the right blinker assembly to the passing lamp bar by inserting the tab on the blinker mount into the slot on the lamp bar and seating the assembly into position. Screw into place by using the Phillips screw that was removed to initially take the blinker bracket off the bar.
NOTE: Make sure the passing lamp wire and the blinker wire run under the blinker mount.

Install the left blinker assembly to the passing lamp bar like you did the right one:
NOTE: Make sure the passing lamp wire(s) and the blinker wire run under the blinker mount.
< not pictured >

The completed passing lamp & blinker assembly:
NOTE: Route the wiring from the passing lamps and turn signals along the underside of the passing lamp bar and out through the two notches in the rear.

Now to connect the wiring in the headlight bucket. The install kit does come with two splice taps, but I’m going to use T-Taps instead, since I like them better. Here’s a T-Tap. It has two parts, the clamshell piece is what clamps around the wire, the male spade connector will plug into the spine of the T-Tap:
NOTE: If you want to use the supplied splice taps, look at the end of the install page – I’ll show you those and how they work there. If you do use the splice taps, then you WILL NOT be attaching the spade connectors to either the ground or power wires.

Here’s a demonstration of installing the T-Tap onto the ground wire of the headlight plug, but DO NOT PUT IT HERE! The supplied ground wire will not reach from here to the passing lamp mount. Trust me. Where you will be connecting this is on the ground wire of the ACCESSORY plug.

With that out of the way, now, all you have to do is bend the T-Tap over the wire you want to splice into, with the wire resting in the notch of metal spline:

Take your pliers and press together until it snaps into place:

T-Tap in place and ready for use. The spine is where the male spade will plug in:

What I’m going to use for my ground and power is the accessory plug. The accessory plug wiring runs through the same circuit as the headlight.

Connect the T-Tap to the black wire of the accessory plug:

Now, depending on how you want the lamps to operate will determine where you splice in the other T-Tap for power. For me I wanted to have the passing lamps on all the time, regardless of high-beam or low-beam (yah, I know, possibly illegal). If I understand correctly, the law states that the accessory lights should be turned off when headlights are on high-beam.

OK, here are the possibilities:
On all the time – green wire with blue stripe (accessory plug power wire)
On with High beam – Yellow wire
On with Low beam – Green wire

You decide how you want it to run.

I spliced into the accessory plug for power:
NOTE: Ignore the ground wire that’s already connected, we’ll get to that next.

The supplied ground wire has a ring connector on one end. On the other end we need to connect a male spade for the T-Tap. Begin by stripping the wire:
NOTE: If you will be using the supplied splice tap, then you will NOT be attaching the spade connector. Follow the directions for using a splice tap at the end of the install to connect the lamp ground wire to the harness.

Bare wire:

Crimp the spade on:

Ready for use:

Run the spade end of the ground wire up from underneath into the headlight bucket:

Plug it into the T-Tap on the ground wire of the accessory plug:

Prepping the passing lamp power wire.
NOTE: If you will be using the supplied splice tap, then you will NOT be attaching the spade connector. Follow the directions for using a splice tap at the end of the install to connect the lamp power wire to the harness.

Cut the existing male bullet connector off:
NOTE: Only do this if you are going to be mounting the fuse holder on the outside like I did. Otherwise, just skip this step and install the spade on the other end.

Strip the insulation off:

Naked wire:

Slide the male spade connector onto the wire:

Crimp the connector:

The male spade connector crimped on:

Like the ground wire, run the male spade end of the power wire up underneath into the headlight bucket . Plug the male spade into the T-Tap you connected for power. For me, it’s the accessory plug:

Bundle all the wire connectors back up into the wiring packet. Use a couple of zip ties to snug up your additional wires if desired:

We’re headed towards final assembly! Getting close!

Set the passing lamp bar up under the headlight bucket, as we are ready to make the final wiring connections. I found the shoebox that the lamps came in to be a good support:
NOTE: Route the wiring from the passing lamps and turn signals along the underside of the passing lamp bar and out through the two notches in the rear of the bar.

Run the blinker wires back into the headlight bucket and re-connect them:

Re-connect the fuse-holder:

Re-installing the headlight.

Re-connect the plug back into the headlight:

Re-run the headlight wiring back through the retaining clip on top:

Seat the headlight assembly back into the bucket:

Screw back in the four 4mm hex bolts to secure the headlight:
NOTE: This is your LAST CHANCE to tighten up that little Phillips head screw underneath the headlight bucket!



Nearing the finish line!

Slide the passing lamp assembly onto the bracket under the headlight, making sure no wires are pinched and the passing lamp bar goes under the flange in the middle of the mount.

Here it is in place:

Time to put back the three hex bolts you took out when you initially removed the mounting bracket from the passing lamp bar. The two 5mm hex bolts go in either outer hole, while the single 4mm hex bolt goes in the middle hole, where the ground wire will be attached. Torque each to 11 ft-lbs. I put Loctite on mine because I don't plan on having to remove the bar to get into the headlight(I'll explain that at the end), but I’m not sure I recommend it.

Right bolt:

Left bolt:

Middle bolt:
NOTE: The ground wire is secured to the middle bolt, as you see here:

Final wiring cleanup.

I tucked the fuse holder up underneath the left side of the passing lamp bar. Now won’t that be easier to get to if the fuse burns out?

The fuse holder is nice and snug in this position, but I zip-tied it to the blinker wiring to for a little additional support:

WHEW! DONE! Let’s test it!

Fire your baby up and this is what you should see:

Test to make sure everything still works.

High beam:
NOTE: Since I wired the passing lamps into the accessory plug, my lamps WILL NOT turn off.

Left blinker:

Right blinker:

Toggle switch on the passing lamp:

And back on:

CONGRATULATIONS! YOU DID IT!

Final thoughts:

For water drainage, Yamaha recommends drilling two 4mm holes in the blinker assemblies, at the base of the neck and at the very bottom under the bulb.

Roughly here:

And here:

I haven't decided yet if I am going to do this or not. I may just drill the one in the bottom.

With the passing lamp now in place, it is now very difficult to remove the headlight if necessary. Forum member “therocp” had the good idea of cutting down an Allen wrench so that it would fit between the passing lamp bar and the headlight bucket so the lower hex bolts could be removed without having to remove the passing lamp bar. I tried it and it works fine. The only challenge is putting the bottom ones back in. Patience and small hands are the key!

Here’s how much I cut off:

I mentioned when I was installing the T-Taps onto the accessory plug that the install kit came with two wire splice taps. These are permanent connectors, which is why I dislike using them.

This is how to connect one.

Run the new wire into the hole beside the spine. It will stop just over half-way through:

Snap the wire you want to splice into, in the other hole:

Here you can see that the wire can be inserted from the side:

Like the T-Tap, use pliers to snap the clip closed. This will push the spline through the insulation and make the connection:

BONUS POINTS!

Want to impress your bar buddies with your technical prowess? Then use a matching female plug to connect to the accessory plug. No splicing!:

I hope you found this somewhat useful and will provide sufficient information for you to decide if you want to tackle this project or not.

Enjoy the ride!

Boomer Sooner
Potestatem obscuri lateris nescis


Passing Lamps

Hello everyone and a Merry Christmas too all !!!!

Has anyone ever used a different set of passing lamps on the OEM bar ? Are there any better lamps to use? If so what brand and size did you use?

Yep

Walmart lights about $20.00
Might ask on a regular post. If I had to do it over I would go with Wal Mart lights.
I thing they are smaller & halogen 55 watts . If you have engine guards you can mount them on them some mounted on the reflector on shock.

Best I can do. Merry Christmas, Raymond

Passing Lamps

Did you get your passing lamps and mount through your local Yamaha Dealer? Or, is there someplace on-line better to purchase them through?

didn't work

I guess I'm gonna have to put it back the way it was. It didn't like my extension I hope the pic gets posted. The blinker lights come on but no headlight or lamps.

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Headlamp not working now

15amp doesn't seem to work. Worst part is now the headlight doesn't come on in addition to the lamps. I put back in the 10amp that was originally blown and the headlight still doesn't come on. I thought it was on before I started replacing the fuse. I haven't put the headlight back on the bucket yet or the light bar on the bracket. I just put a couple bolts as spacer for the ground wire and attached it to the flange on the bracket. The blinkers are working right. The onle wire I spliced was the long end of the fuse wire coming from the lamps. I replaced the fuse holder that was originally there. Everythings hooked up.

headlight

Just a note, you don't have to loosen the screw underneath that holds the clip. Makes removing the headlight a little easier, but not necessary. The clip just holds the bottom of the headlight.

The headlight only comes on when the bike is running - you did start it?

Ready to reroute fuse holder

I couln't wait til tomorrow to dive in. I had to take the light bar off. No way I was gonna get to the retaining clip screw. The fuse is blown. I thought it would be a 20amp as someone had posted below but its only a 10amp fuse. He had everyhting wrapped in the plastic. So I went to the auto parts store and the guy talked me into getting some 15 amp. Said if its blowing 10amp it was customary to try a 15 or 20amp and if keeps blowing its something else. And I got another fuse holder. Its a 20 gauge wire fuse holder and he gave me 2ft 20 gauge wire. But I think I will just leave the "short end" fuse wire like it is instead of cutting it and wrap the 12 gauge extension to it to reroute outside the bucket. Theres more metal to attach to than just the wire. I will need to cut the long end of the fuse wire cause the new fuse holder is not like the present one. Now to be able to get it back together? Freaked me out when a spacer fell out taking it apart. But with the help of the How-To I think I can do this. Is it okay to put on the parts I got to reroute the fuse holder? I would appreciate it so I can finish tomorrow. Thank you!

Lamps not coming on....

after the bike is started. Dealer 125 miles away who installed em 3 weeks ago said the tech said it was the fuse inside the headlight bucket. Ya, I read the How-To and saw how it can be placed outside the bucket. So, will I be able to just take it apart and the fuse will be right there? Looks like I'll have to remove the light bar first. I don't think I have anything that shallow for the bottom hex bolts. Any input on the fuse. Plain automotive? I'm gonna have to go back and see how to put it on the outside. Is this possible at this time? Since the dealer siad this might be a re-occuring problem due to any vibrations causing the fuse to blow. AND not to leave them on all the time. WHAT? Preferrable just at night. WHAT? I really appreciate any input you can offer. Thank you.

hex key

Look at the bottom of the how-to. Cut a hex key down so that it will fit between the bucket and the light bar. It takes some effort, but will save taking off the bar. If you have large hands, you may want someone with smaller hands to give it a go. Once you have it apart, look for bare wire or metal to metal contact with the fuse wire. Give the wire a tug where it is connected and see if it's loose or broken. Do the same for the ground. One end of the ground should be bolted up underneath the light bar, who knows where they connected the other end.

Mike

Cut a hex key

Thanks Mike. I took out my Dremel last night and cut a hex key. Fits in there nice. Its a 4" key so i got plenty of handle to use. The bolts aren't even that tight. They loosened fairly easily. I know it shouldn't be an all day job but i'm waiting til the weekend to dive into it. I still want to see if its not to late to get this fuse outside of the headlight bucket. The How-To is confusing me trying to come in at the middle to see how to go about this. i'm thinking the hard part is just getting wires threaded outside of the bucket.

swapping ends

Basically you are swapping the ends of the power wire so that the short end where the fuse holder is, is down by the passing lamp.

Mike

If it's a fuse blowing up,

If it's a fuse blowing up, they really screwed it up. It's most likely the insulation on the wire touching the metal. If the fuse is OK, then look what type of connector they used to tap for power [this could get loose]. I ended up taking the whole thing apart, rewiring and reinstalling making connection with solder. No problems for over the year and they stay on all the time.

Is that the fuse wire? So,

Is that the fuse wire? So, if a fuse is blown, will I need to redo their work since you say they screwed it up. Can you please expand on exactly how they might have screwed it up in case I need to communicate my concrens with them if this does keep happening. Thank you for the help.

The fuse should not burn

The fuse should not burn with normal use of lights. Normal, I mean having them on all the time. You have to get to the inside of light bucket and check if it is a fuse or the connection to the power source.

OEM Passing Light Install

All I can say is simply this, Yamaha should be ashamed of the instructions that come with this kit (photcopied, faded, incomplete and the list goes on).....thank you very much for taking the time to meticulously document the entire install it sure helped me

Pickster357

PASSING LIGHT INSTALLATION

I JUST WANTED TO SAY THANK YOU. THE YAMAHA INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS ARE NOT VERY COMPLETE NOR ACCURATE. YOUR INSTRUCTIONS AND PHOTOS MADE IT MUCH EASIER.

GRANKY

What amp fuse?

Hi

The fuse in my passing lamps has blown for the 4th time in 18 months.
The dealer (in the uk) fitted the lamps originally and has fixed them each time they have stopped working.
As I am no longer anywhere near the dealer, I've managed to locate the fuse (which is 20 amp) but I can't find a fuse of the same size or ampage in any of the local shops (in Spain)

As far as I can see I have two options either
1) Fit a fuse with a different amp rating, but which I don't know. Do I go higher (25 amp) or lower (16 amp)
or
2) Fit a different type fuse holder, which will take the 20 amp fuses that I can find.

What's the general consensus?

Thanks in advance

Install

Well done you are awesome Boomer...Me too can do it now.
JP

Boomer is definitely the Man

Thanks Boomer. I am not ready to say that I could not have done it without you, but you definitely saved me time and effort. I am very grateful for the time you have spent here helping everyone out.

Your Passing Lamp Install

Boomer
I'll tell ya, your step by step is by far the BEST directions I have seen for this install. I cannot wait till i get my lights in.

Awesome Man, Thanks!

Thanks for the directions

I had a dealer do the install of my passing lamps before I found your instructions here. After the dealer (which is 200 miles away) did the install I noticed that the headlight can was loose. Using your directions I worked sorta backwards to take things apart and found the reason for the loose headlight. The mechanic had put the windshield bracket inside of the passing lamp bracket so the 2 long middle bolts wouldn't pull up the headlight mounting bracket tight. Once I put the windshield brackets where they belong everything went back together and all is good. Should have done the whole job myself!

Omajoe

Not the edge of the world but can see it from here!

Just so you guys know,

Just so you guys know, Bondhaus makes a shorty allen wrench set. We have them at the shop and when you need them, they're great to have. There are probably a lot of places on a bike where they would come in handy.

Hutch

Part of something, is a lot better than all of nothing.

Just finished my install

Started out very easy, I went ahead and completely removed the headlight housing and the new bracket was extremely easy to install with out the light housing there, was taking my time and enjoying it. then started having problems but they were my fault. had heck getting the light bar to line up all 3 bolts finally got it done and discovered I should have put the headlight back in the housing 1st cause no way to get bottom housing screws in place. had to remove the bar then had trouble getting bottom housing screws in. then I discovered I did not tighten the nuts very tight on spotlights and had to remove blinkers to do that but finally it is all done and I Totally Love the New Look!!!! thanks for taking the time to create this how to it was a lifesaver for me.

Sinerely Kenny Smith aka Yamahauler

Thank you and a question

I just installed the passing lamps on my 1 week old bike. Everything went great except for install of the hollow carriage bolt through the lamp housings. For some reason, mine slid from the square hole a lot. It is fine now, but I believe it could be tighter than it is right now. Anyone has similar issues with installing the bolt on the hollow carriage bolt?

Yes

Others have had issues with that as well. All I can say is that quality control isn't quite what it should be.

Just make them snug enough to hold the lamps in place.

Boomer Sooner
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Thank you

I appreciate all your help and contribution. You help make this the most useful and informational V-star 1300 site among many of these kind. Thanks.

You are DA MAN!

As usual, Boomer, your instructions are impeccable; the step by step was dead on the money. Read, read, review, open the packages, put the laptop on the workbench and voila - new passing lamps installed without a hitch! Thanks for all you do for our group!

You're Welcome

Hey Splatman,

Glad it helped!

Boomer Sooner
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Question???

Boomer, you mentioned that your passing lights were always going to be on. Last year when bought my bike I ordered the passing lamps and the engine gaurds from the dealer. When I picked the bike up and they were going over the operation, the tech turned on the passing lights by turning on my high beam. I told them that I wanted them to be on all the time for greater visibility. After checking with someone the tech came back and told me that they were not designed to stay on all the time. They said they could rewire them so they were on all the time but there may be issues of the lamps getting to hot. This seemed stupid to me at the time, because I see bikes with passing lamps on constently, but I let it go. My question to you is...were they BSing me? Are these lights OK being on all the time? I assume that the light bars are the same.(I know, I shouldn't assume.) Let me know.
Thanks,
Steve.

they're BSing

They just didn't want to rewire them. Myself and many others have ridden for a very long time with the lights on all the time with no issues.

Many states have laws that say passing lamps must be OFF when highbeam is on. As a comparison, if your car has foglamps, turn them on then hit your highs - they'll turn off.

You can change it very simply. Just look at the install section on wiring in the basket and splice into the accessory plug - this will turn them on all the time.

Boomer Sooner
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I THOUGHT SO!!

Thanks Boomer, I figured that's what it was-they just didn't want to rewire. I know with your instructions I'll be able to get it done.

Thanks again,

Steve

LOVE this Site

Nishisan
Victoria, BC
Cold & snowing in Victoria in March yet so thought, running lights- went to Canadian Tire & got a pair.
Looked at front cover below headlight- take out 2 hex bolts, simple and done - 'easy'. GENTLY pry out the spiked pin out of the grommet. Only HALF a pin!!!! Broke it!!!!!! Not please with myself, 200 km and a broken piece, da_ _!! Just looked at the picture, ---- half a pin, no I did not break it!!! OK!!!! Still snowing, will continue instal soon. Confidence restored. Love the pics, love this site. Thanks to all that contribute as it really helps us understand and have confidence in our 'loves ones', and yes I am married but here I do mean Nelly Belle, my 1300.

Thanks,

OEM lights WOW!

Everything was going smoothly until I ran into the green Loc-Tite holding the turn signal brackets on to the triple-tree casting and the windscreen mount. I wrecked two Allen tools and nearly ruined the bolts trying to loosen them. I've never run into Green Loc-Tite, my God it's strong! So, guys be careful and make sure your Allen-head tools are top quality so they don't strip the the head of the bolt out. Maybe judicious use of a butane micro-torch would soften the Loc-Tite; make sure that all of the surrounding areas are well shielded.

Bob

Green?

Hmm, I don't recall there being any threadlocker on those bolts. Some types of green are for permanent bonding and HAS to be heated to be removed, so hopefully it wasn't that type!

Boomer Sooner
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stripping the hex bolt

Help!

I was trying to do an install of a cobra passing lamps and got through to the removal of the turn signal braket and as was mentioned, make sure you have good hex wrenches. So I went and purchased good ones fearing mine were generic at best and after struggling to loosen the bolt, I stripped the hex head. So being brighter than the average idiot, I tried to back it out with a removal bit thinking this would loosen the bolt up and finally I could get it out. All this did was strip and smooth the head down. I can't get the bolt loose. Does anyone have any suggestions on removing this bolt. It is a pain is the @#$!

Any help would be appreciated.

Another Successful installation!

I too successfully completed the install of my Tri-Bar passing lamps using your instructions! Thanks for doing the footwork! The only thing I did differently was wire the fuse holder inside the head light housing and...temp installed the light bar to do the wiring then dropped it down, installed the head light and reinstalled the light bar! This worked out quite well and didn't have to cut down the allen wrenches. The t-taps are a great alternative to the splices!
Thanks for the great instructions!
Gold 2008 V-Star 1300 Tourer, Yamaha Big Bar engine guards, Yamaha Tri-bar passing lamps

Successful Passing Lamp Install

Thanks again BoomerSooner! I installed the passing lamps last night. Took me about 3 hours, start to finish, and your How-To instructions were just the ticket to make it go smooth. The only thing that I did different, is when it came to running the wires for the lamps, I did not attempt to pass the female plug end coming from the lamps down through the hollow bolts. Instead, I ran the red power lead (with male end) and lamp-to-lamp connecting wire (with male ends) up through the bolt and into the lamps. For the lamp with the switch (left side), I just need to put one wire in first, and then the other and it fit just fine. No need to cut the plastic around the wire fittings this way and there was still plenty of wire to do the job.

I also connected by wire to the accessory plug, as you suggested. They are on all the time, which is the way that I want it!

Thanks!

Hi Ghilmas!

I'm glad you found the directions useful.

LOL! You ran the male end of the wires up into the lamps! Nice workaround and an obvious answer! Never underestimate my ability to overlook the obvious! :)

I'll update the directions with your suggestion. Darn! I should have asked you to take pics!

Enjoy the ride!

Boomer Sooner
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Nice write up, Boomer. I ran

Nice write up, Boomer.

I ran into most of the same problems you did (including forgetting the collars under the lights lol). And, judging by your instructions, I've got to go back and fix something. Doh!! When I took my bike apart to do the install, the original turn signal bracket was *over* the windshield mounts, so I reinstalled it that way. Guess I have a project for this weekend, since I put it back together the same way.

My bike wasn't originally a tourer, although it did have the windshield installed already when i bought it. So, I blame my dealer ;)

The instructions that came with the lamps could definitely use some improvement, but with your how-to, it'll definitely make things easier for folks who want to try it on their own.

Turn signal bracket over the windshield mounts

Idid the same thing putting the signal light bracket over my windshield mounts. because that was the way my orignal signal light mounts were the shop had installed my windshield. I noticed when ever thing was back together the mount my head light bucket was attached to was lose because the spacers were not long enough. so I added one washer on each spacer to take up space and tighened back up seemed to work fine then.

That's Interesting

Hey MNeedham73!

Yah, missing putting on the collars is pretty easy if you don't pay attention, plus I think they were in the packet with the turn signal gaskets and not with the rest of the hardware. Easy to overlook if you don't look closely at the diagram. I think the instructions were meant only to be used by experienced Yamaha mechs and not for us average shadetree mechs.

You said your turnsignal mounts were on top of your windshield mounts? That's very interesting! Are you having buffeting issues even with lowers? I really don't have much of a buffeting issue(I'm 5'10" with the tall windshield), and I'm wondering if by re-mounting your bracket if that will allow your windshield to lean back more. You may try loosening up all your windshield bolts and see if it will go back more before you tighten the bracket up.

Boomer Sooner
Potestatem obscuri lateris nescis

No Buffeting

Nope, no buffeting problems at all. I have the tall windshield also and I'm 6'3". The Harley lowers definitely help with that. I still wouldn't mind being able to lean the windshield back a little more, however.

I suppose I should have realized something was amiss when I noticed the spacers for the two center bolts for the bracket weren't long enough and I added a washer to each one lol.

Oh well, live and learn. Shouldn't be a huge job to fix it.

OEM Passing Lamps

I just ordered the OEM passing lamps and found this site which states that there is a "How-To" on the installation. The link doesn't seem to be working though as it only goes to a blog about the passing lamps with no "How-To" information. Does anyone know where the live link to the "How-To" on the passing lamp installation has gone?

Thanks

My error

Hi Ghilmas,

That's my fault. I did not realize that the "how-to" was a link to the original post - I thought it was a copy, and so I changed the original post to "moved to how-to". I've re-posted a slightly older version of the install for now. I have the most currently copy of the install on another machine, which I currently can't get to at the moment. I'll have the most current version re-posted Thurs morn.

That will teach me to make changes without checking afterwards!

Hang in there, and welcome!

Boomer Sooner
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No problem and thanks

Boomer Sooner,
Thanks for putting the version that you currently have onto the "how-to" section. The lights look great on your 1300. I am going to print it out tonight and study it. If you put the updated version on later this week, then I will print that one out as well before I start. My passing lamps are coming from South Seattle Yamaha Sports Plaza next Tuesday, and I plan to put them on the weekend after. I order the tri-bar lamps for mine (STR-4WM35-10-EA), but I assume that the install will be basically the same.

I just bought my 2008 1300 Tourer (Seashell color) in June and have 1100 miles on it so far. The passing lamps are my first upgrade, so I guess I picked a tough one. It shouldn't be a problem though with your fantastic pictures as I am pretty handy with a wrench and electrical wiring connectors. Am looking forward to having some more lights on the bike as I have already had a two hard brake-checks from cars who couldn't seem to see me.

Thanks again!

Updated

Hey Ghilmas!

The most current changes are now posted. They were pretty much the same - comments about drilling drain holes were added and some misc wording changes.

I bought mine from South Seattle as well. Good folks to work with.

It's not a difficult install, just a bit long. With your experience turning a wrench, most the directions you will probably fly over. You may want to note the few places I made mistakes (I pointed them out) so you don't do the same thing. Also read the posts in the thread. Tim and Westerner have mentioned cleaning up the bolt-holes in the passing lamp housings prior to install, and you may want to consider doing that as well.

After your install, please point out any areas that were not clear or helpful. I only recently posted this, so it looks like you will be the first guinea pig!

Having the passing lamps definitely helps to be be seen! I also installed a Knight Riderz rear light which seems to have helped considerably from the back. Ever since I put it on, I've noticed that cages don't come up on me as much.

Boomer Sooner
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OEM Passing Lamps

I installed my lights a couple of weeks ago and you are right it turned into a job but was well worth it. I filed the square sholder of the mounting bolts down to fit the lights. I also drilled small holes for the drains.
It all turned out great.
Nice job on the how too and the pictures ( much better than what came with them)

Nice install! Lots of

Nice install! Lots of pictures.

I see that you didn't drill the turn signals for drainage. I am still trying to decide if I want to do it. I am on the wet coast so it might be the thing to do here.

I have the bulb housing installed on the bars but I haven't had time to get the rest done. I see that your square-necked bold didn't quite fit the housing either. I called Yamaha (Star) to see if there was a problem and was told that everything was OK. I persisted and was told to call a dealer which I did. The dealer said that there was a problem. He said that he thought it was in the plating but I think that they punched the hole with the wrong size punch. The dealer said that they get out the die-cutter for every install and that I should use a Dremel carefully to grind the hole until the bolt fit the hole.

Again...Nice install!

That's what I forgot!

Hi Westerner!

Thanks for the reminder! I wanted to mention that in the comments at the end and completely forgot. I knew I forgot something but couldn't remember what it was. I guess that's why they call it forgetting. :)

I haven't decided about it either. I might just drill the one in the bottom and not the neck.

I better go get the camera........

Boomer Sooner
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OK guys, I have an 08

OK guys, I have an 08 XVS1300AX and there is no accessories plug in the light shell???? I am looking for it to plug in the GPS.

Did they remove it in the 08?

UPDATE oops I just found it. Silly me didn't look under the tape like it says so. Even the elect guy helping didn't find it. :-)