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Like some people, I am opposed to paying too much for anything (call me cheap but I work too hard to get what I have and I like to make it go as far as possible). I am due for my 600 mile checkup on my new 2008 v star 1300 (base model) for which I paid under $8400 ( which I could afford ). I nearly fainted when the dealer indicated that the oil change alone would cost over $150. I will pay them the first time for a valve check and adjust and the rest of the 600 mile check items but I will NOT pay $150 for an oil change that I can easily do myself for far less money. I researched the internet and came up with a site called ( motorcycleinfodotcalscidotcom ) and there was some info on synthetic oils and filters. I tried the NAPA filter first because the store is right down the street from my house, (Gold series 1365) and found that it DID NOT WORK! It would not seal up tight enough to keep from leaking and I tried it at max tight and everything in between. I finally gave up and found a Mobil 1 M1-108 which worked like a charm at the factory torque setting. I also orded a K&N (KN-147) for future oil changes as it has a high rating and a nut on the end of the housing which makes installing, removing and torquing much easier. I also invested in a METAL end cap wrench. The plastic ones are worthless and will not allow the correct torque setting without slipping. I would like to add that the factory filter will not work with the end cap wrench for any of the aftermarket filters. It is not the same outside diameter (big surprise there!). I also purchased four quarts of Mobil 1 15w-50 Extended Performance oil ($7.39 ea) after checking with the factory and getting the ok that by using these items, it would not void the warranty. I was told that I should keep all receipts and a log of all maintenance that I do myself (which I do anyway) and that I should purchase the factory Service Manual if I am doing my own preventive maintenance (which I also do anyway) in the event that I would have to recreate what I did to perform the maintenance. I am enjoying the bike but I do have a few gripes to share. I have a factory windshield, (size medium), because even a few bugs in my face are not my idea of fun. Anyway, there is an incredible amount of turbulence at anything over 60 or so mph. It really bounces my head around with a full face helmet, or any other kind of helmet. This complaint is mirrored in numerous other places on the internet. I am also hearing an odd noise that I can only describe as a mild "clinking" and I can't find anything loose. This noise has been evident since about 200 or so miles and is not constant but is fairly frequent. I read another rider describe it as a "clinking keys" noise and that is exactly what I thought it was when I first heard it so I began to use only the key and no other keys or anything else attached to the ignition key. The noise is still there. So far, I am averaging over 60 mpg and I am ecstatic. I am a conservative rider with twenty five years of experience and I don't "hammer" my machines but I never expected this level of fuel efficiency. WOW! Anyway, I hope the oil info helps and I am hoping to hear from others with similar "noise" concerns. Thanks and Happy Motoring! (my GrandFather retired from ESSO if any of you youngsters remember that slogan) I believe they changed it to " Gimme all of your money " after they became Exxon.
4,000 mile oil change
just hit 4,000 miles went to the dealer to buy yamaha lube 20-40w , was told they don't make it any more . went back asked again told the same said they changed the rec. oil to 20-50w . o.k. bought it and a filter , drain plug gasket . Installed it bike seemed to make more noise (valvetrain) , clutched different , ran hotter (fan cycled more) . Gave it a shot 2 days , she didn't like it and is letting me know it . Dumped it , changed to mobil 1 4t racing oil 10-40w , back to dealer another filter , gasket . to find out the filter has changed also . this is a different dealer by the way , they don't have 20-40w either . Called them to verify the part # read them old # they said this is the new # o.k. . I wonder if the the new filter # is suppose to work with the thicker oil ? Don't care using new part# oil filter mobil 1 , she's happy , I'm happy . I get the Idea the dealer it not on top of the needs of this bike yet . Oh on the valve adj. the 1st dealer and 2nd said will do the adj . at 8,000 miles , but if you want they will do it at 4,000 for a price . Kinda funny how something simple can go bad (oil change) .
Valve Adjustment Frequency
Had the initial valve adjustment done per the manual.. two different dealers have also told me that they only recommend adjusting the valves at 8000. They said from their experience it is a waste of money... they have found that there is no need to adjust every 4000. I am following this advice.. as the cost of a valve adjust in CA is outrageous and the bike runs strong and is quiet. Change my oil (20-50W per dealer rec) every 3000 and run semi synthetic.
When folks talk of using Mobil 1.. is this a different Mobil 1 from what is available for cars? I have not seen Mobil 1 for bikes.
Thanks
"motorcycle specific" oils (& some non-mc specific oils)
There is a difference between MC and some auto oils. MC specific oils don't have the same additives (friction modifiers), which can do damage to a wet clutch system, such as ours. These modifiers are likely to cause clutch slippage.
Obviously, many 1300 owners are using AMSOIL, but here are two good and highly recommended "motorcycle specific" synthetic oils from Mobil 1, which you said you hadn't seen:
***Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w-40
***Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50
Mobil 1 also has a recommended "non-motorcycle specific" synthetic oil:
***Mobil 1 15w-50 "Gold Cap" (found at Wal-Mart) ----said to be possibly the best "non MC specific oil available.
Another is:
***Shell Rotella T 5w-40 --- but, this is listed as synthetic, although, it's a petroleum based oil with a minimal amound of synthetic oil included - found at Wal-Mart - still, a very good oil.
Good "non-motorcycle specific conventional (non-synthetic) oil includes:
***Mobil Clean 5000 10w-40 (also found at Wal-Mart)
Stay well.
Morg
I saw a link that had
I saw a link that had different filters that were recommended for our 1300,the NAPA Gold filter was not recommended even though i'v seen where it was.I just changed my oil myself for the first time since I got my bike,i'v got 2000 miles on it and went with Amsoil 10w-40 and got the ST7317 filter from walmart for a little over 2$.I kept reading about how good Amsoil is so i thought i'd try it and see.Other filters that our recommended our:Fram 6017A
Bossch 3300,3330,3323
Purolator 51358
If I can find the link i'll post it,theres more filters listed on it.Also the best filters recommended for our bikes were mostly 3.25 inchs long ,the ST7317 is that long.
600
I had about the same experiance as you with the Napa filter........ it never sealed, even though the guy swore it was the right filter. I was told by and agree that the 600 is too early to put synt. oil in, so I put yamalube back in untill the next change. I had a whale of a time getting the stock filter off, no wrench and ended up running my Snap On ice pick through and getting it off that way. Nobody in town handles the Purlator filter. I will do more research before I get my next filter. Went back with the Yam filter this time. Like the other post, get some lowers on, I made my own there are picts here, do a search on lowers, or a search on my post..... jdadoug. I dont have any noises that I think are not "normal" the cam chain is loud and whinny, but thats about it on my 08. later jdadoug. It aint never easy!
incredible amount of turbulence
I had the same issue, but there is an inexpensive fix for this
1> Add lowers - Many here have purchased Buck's lowers, I went with HD lowers, I prefer the chrome, and it's half the cost of Buck's.
2> Tilt the windshield, to match the same angle as the front forks. Takes drilling a hole in the windshield bracket, but if you have added the HD lowers, it's bracket covers the holes, so that they do not show
With these two things done, buffeting is a thing of the past. I joke that I can light a cigarette at 75 mph
Tipi
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The 'Other Woman' - 2008 Black Cherry 1300T
Passenger Floor Boards - Luggage Rack - Tilted Windshield
Kuryakyn HD Lowers - RSTD Bars - Kuryakyn ISO Grips
Darmik Sissybar Extension - Drilled Exhaust and Airbox
Helmet Guardian - ButtyBuddy Removable Passenger Seat
I've been running (as of
I've been running (as of late), amsoil 10w40 in my 1300. I utilize wallyworld oil filters. (twice as big (more filtering media), as the stock yammie ones, PLUS they're black/incognito).
As far as the noises, the 1300 has lots of noises. The ONLY abnormal one that I and hundreds of others have repaired on our own is the annoying clunk in the front end over bumps/potholes. By installing progressive springs in the front forks, (swapping out stock chinsey/flimsy ones), with the progressive ones), that noise is gone. PLUS the bike (as odd as it may seem), WILL handle better to boot!
Other noises such as rattles on start up, gear whine, etc, are all 'part of the gig' with the 1300.
16,000 miles, going strong. Over 50 mpg riding double ALL the time. What's not to love? (other then eating up rear tires like they're going out of style.........)
Enjoy your 1300!